Encountering the Heart of Jerusalem

Posted on August 21, 2008
Filed Under Ilana Teitelbaum, International, Israel, Jerusalem, Tourism, travel | 1 Comment

If the Old City is the soul of Jerusalem, the city center is its beating heart. But most tourists neglect the byways and side streets that would take them to an experience of Jerusalem at its best—the true city center.

Centuries of history are a constant presence in this city—not only in ancient sites, but also in the hearts of its people. Jerusalem is one of the most diverse cities in the world, uniting these dramatically different streams of humanity as one is the unshakable power of the past.

How does one live in the shadow of such lofty history, where the passion of religious faith is mirrored in the relentless heat of the sun?

The answer lies, perhaps surprisingly, in the deceptively small city center of Jerusalem.

The main secret to enjoying central Jerusalem is to understand this: the urban center is a night-blooming flower. Jerusalemites are addicted to nightlife, and options range from upscale restaurants, trendy cafes and rough-around-the-edges bars. After nightfall, the hot workaday streets are transformed into a pulsating cultural hub, where live jazz and poetry readings go hand in hand with black metal parties.

The second secret of the city is: get away from the main streets. The city center is a warren of fascinating and colorful detours waiting to be explored. Escape into Nachlat Shiva, lined with shops that offer the best of Israel’s art, as well as a glimpse into the cultural creativity. Among of The most notable of these stores is the Pottery Collective, which sells unique pieces in a profusion of colors.

Now enter the mysterious tunnel of Nachlat Shiva, so worthwhile and so easy to miss. In the courtyard beyond, are places most tourists never discover. Timol Shilshom, nestled in an old house in the courtyard and up a flight of stairs, is a gem of a restaurant that offers an artistic ambiance. Shelves of books in many languages adorn the walls, and are for sale along with the food. In stark contrast and just across the courtyard are some of Jerusalem’s trendiest bars, spilling live music into the night.

Finally, secret number three: the cool kids are on the move. Dare to walk down Jaffa Road until you reach Shlomzion Hamalkah Street—and then wander. In this area, you’ll find more sophisticated natives who have wearied of the noisy teenagers of Ben Yehuda. Japanika serves up sushi in dimlit elegance, while the bohemian, cheap-chic Marakia serves soup and beer to university students—along with live jazz concerts with some of the city’s best musicians.

Now, look up. From here, the citadel of the Old City is just ahead, luminous in the night. Behind you, strains of the bass and piano mingle with laughter and conversation. Before you is the past, the present just behind. Here in Jerusalem, past and present mingle, separate and meet again, in a complex and never-ending dance.

Ilana Teitelbaum

[Ms. Teiltelbaum is an Israeli travel writer with a deep love and knowledge of Jerusalem. She will occasionally grace our pages with her writings on famous and hidden tourist spots]

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One Response to “Encountering the Heart of Jerusalem”

Kate from Mississippi, United States on August 21st, 2008 10:00 pm

Guess who is gonna copy and paste, and print this puppy out to carry along come November!