An Escape Into the Hills

Posted on August 25, 2008
Filed Under Ein Kerem, Ilana Teitelbaum, Israel, Jerusalem, Jews, Tourism, travel | Comments Off

Perched among mountains and hills in the remote outskirts of Jerusalem, the ancient village of Ein Kerem resonates with whispers of the past and music of the present. On all sides, vistas of the encircling hills in all their green abundance; surrounding you at every turn, the winding stone walkways of bygone days, turning into graceful archways hung with ivy and almond blossoms. Poetry is in the air.

An utterly different experience from the rest of Jerusalem, Ein Kerem exudes a sense of undisturbed beauty; its lush branches of wild pomegranates, olives, figs and pears are largely untouched by human hands. Rising above this tangle of green are rows of slender cypresses, such as are common on the French Riviera and evoke the atmosphere of a Mediterranean village. Interspersed throughout are winding streets and centuries-old homes, towering church steeples that glimmer above the trees.

At sunset, the soft light transforms the landscape into a scene from a medieval painting. In the distance church bells toll, echo, heralding the dusk.

Said to be the birthplace of John the Baptist, there are traces of human settlement in Ein Kerem from as long ago as the Bronze Age. The origin of the settlement was probably its natural spring, which flows as strongly now as in the days of yore; its soft tinkle a constant melody in the quiet of day and night. Ein Kerem is a place of stillness, where the natural sounds of wind and birds prevail. But the village also has a lively, playful side: Ein Karem is a popular haunt for artists, and Israelis enjoy visiting to revel in its pastoral beauty. The Targ Music Center holds classical and chamber music concerts on most weekends, and there are many cafes and restaurants, some of them steeped in tradition, that offer a relaxed atmosphere away from the crowds of the city proper. The elegant restaurants attract an upscale clientele, and there is even a shop for artisan chocolates and Italian gelati, all made on the premises. These sensual pleasures are an appropriate counterpoint to the spiritual atmosphere of the place.

But the best of Ein Kerem can be enjoyed for free. Wander the ancient streets. Explore the groves and wild gardens, pluck a pomegranate from the low-hanging branches. Rediscover your own rhythms under the trees. The city in all its rush and bustle can wait—time has stopped for a moment here.

Ilana Teitelbaum

[Ms. Teiltelbaum is an Israeli travel writer with a deep love and knowledge of Jerusalem. She will occasionally grace our pages with her writings on famous and hidden tourist spots]

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